Ahead of Orthodox Lent, Estonian Setos celebrate Maslenitsa with local flair

On the eve of Orthodox Lent, Setomaa locals marked the end of Maslenitsa with sledding, pancakes, music and, inspired by the recent Olympics, even a fun local take on curling.
This year's festivities on the frozen Lake Obinitsa mixed old and new.
Alongside traditional crepe-style pancakes, karmoška music, polyphonic Seto leelo singing, sleigh rides and downhill sledding, revelers also tried their hand at "kettle curling," a local twist on the winter sport devised by area Seto women.
"We women thought, since curling was such a big event at the Olympics, we'd make our own version," Aira Tarros explained in Seto.
Since everyone already had kettles and big soup pots on hand at home, she added, it seemed like a natural fit.
The playful competition has helped draw in younger participants, including first-time attendees.
"This is a lot of fun," said Pilleriin Palok, who played karmoška Sunday with her brother as others danced. She especially enjoyed the kettle curling and other traditional games, like the sack race.
Nods to times gone by
Children also flocked to the ice carousel, known locally as a püürhäll, spun by hand on the frozen lake. For some, the day offered a glimpse into simpler winter pleasures.
"Maybe in the past they didn't have the things we do today, like phones or TVs," said Aro Ülper, one of the kids who helped push the carousel. "I'm not positive, but I think this was a fun winter toy back then."
Maslenitsa, or maaselits in Seto, is the last big celebration before Lent. While strict fasting is no longer widely observed in Setomaa, many still mark the seven-week season in their own way.
"Everyone fasts differently, whether spiritually or with the church,," explained Tarros. "But no one is forced to. Everyone does what they feel is right."
Parents say the tradition sparks conversations at home as well. Maarja Hõrn-Ülper said her children had already started asking about how the Lenten fast works and what they might give up.
"There was talk about giving up meat," Hõrn-Ülper said. But when she suggested giving up sweets instead, "that didn't go over well at all."
Two Easters, two Lents
Orthodox Christmas, celebrated by Setos as talsipühä, falls on a set date each year — January 7 according to the Gregorian calendar used in Estonia today.
Like Western Easter, however, Orthodox Easter is a moveable feast, or moving holiday, dictating in turn where in the calendar Lent and events preceding it fall.
Western Easter is celebrated on the first Sunday after the first full moon on or after the spring equinox. When its Orthodox counterpart is observed is based on the Julian calendar it follows, while also ensuring, in keeping with the Bible, that it falls after the Jewish Passover.
This year, Shrove Tuesday (vastlapäev) was celebrated in Estonia on February 17, with Lent beginning the next day. Easter Sunday will fall on April 5.
Meanwhile, Maslenitsa Week, also called Butter Week (võinätäl) overlapped with vastlapäev this year, falling on the third full week of February. It is celebrated with various events by Orthodox communities across Estonia, culminating with maaselits celebrations that Sunday.
Orthodox Lent began on Monday; this year, Orthodox Easter will be observed on April 12.
--
Editor: Johanna Alvin, Aili Vahtla










