Estonian artisans recreating traditional Pärnu County sheepskin coats
A group of Estonian artisans are hand-sewing traditional sheep- and sealskin coats from historic Pärnu County parishes, reviving techniques and winterwear nearly lost to time.
To help preserve the region's cultural heritage, a project is underway at the Tõstamaa Craft Center to recreate sheepskin coats once worn with folk dress in the parishes of Pärnu County.
Each coat is made entirely by hand, using traditional stitching methods and materials. With winter cold at its peak, the heavy coats are practical as well.
The project was initiated by folk dress expert Anu Randmaa, who has long wanted to recreate the ornate coats once collected from Tõstamaa and other parishes of Pärnu County.
The idea, she said, dates back to her first year of a folk dress-making course in 2000, when she encountered examples of the coats in museums. Her goal was to revive authentic traditional winterwear, including coats, hats and overcoats, rooted in Pärnu County parish traditions.
The course underway in Tõstamaa brings together veteran folk dress artisans creating coats to accompany their own regional dress.
Under the guidance of coatmaker Made Uus, participants have studied museum pieces and learned traditional sewing techniques, including for leather and sheepskin.
'We don't live on farms anymore'
Sourcing materials has been one of the project's challenges.
"We don't live on farms anymore," Randmaa said, adding that that means suitable hides aren't readily available.
"In these coats, the hide itself, not the fur, is the valuable material, requiring sheep that produce suitable skins," she explained.
In all, ten coats are in the works, representing the parishes of Tõstamaa, Mihkli, Häädemeeste, Pärnu-Jaagupi and Audru.
Expert Maia Agar is working on an Audru Parish coat distinguished by cuffs and details made not of sheepskin, but sealskin.
Trying on her coat and yet-unattached sleeves, she described the work as physically demanding, noting that long hours of sewing by hand strain the hands and fingers. "But it's so inspiring and challenging!" she added.
A different style of Audru Parish coat is being made by expert Tiia Heinsaar, who is recreating a pleated version of which no museum specimen exists.
The design is based on limited historical documentation, and features pleats similar to those found on Muhu island coats.
"There are no other coats like it here in Pärnu County," Heinsaar said.
The group's coats are nearing completion and will be unveiled in Pärnu during Independence Day celebrations in two weeks.
Photos of the finished garments will also be published on the Estonian national costume website.
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Editor: Valner Väino, Aili Vahtla
