Heading out before sunrise, coastal fishers often haul in nets packed with ide, also known as orfe, instead of more valuable catch.

"It's such a cheap fish, unfortunately," said professional fisherman Tambet Oll, who admitted that a netful of ide meant the day was ruined. "The boat is packed and there may well be 200–300 kilograms of ide. But it's really more of a nuisance."

Oll said ide tangles nets and crowds out other species to boot. "It twists the line for meters on end, and nothing else gets in," he added.

In Saaremaa, professional fisherman Toivo Pära said the numbers don't add up, and he ends up better off keeping the fish for himself.

"The problem is the price — about 30 cents," he said. That means a 100-kilogram haul would only bring in roughly €30. "It's not really worth it."

Pära said he dries some fish, gives some away and processes the rest himself.

Buyer Raul Paabu said he still purchases dozens of tons of ide annually, but acknowledged demand is weak.

"It's an underappreciated fish," he said. "When we didn't have ide, everyone wanted it and kept asking for it. Now that it's back, that huge demand is gone."

Some of the catch, he said, ends up as pet food, but much of it still ends up going to waste, or being turned into fishmeal at best.

Still great for fish sandwiches

Scientists say ide stocks have surged in recent years.

More than 130 metric tons were caught in the Väinameri Sea last year, said Redik Eschbaum, head of the coastal fishery group at the University of Tartu's Estonian Marine Institute.

"Ide catches keep breaking records," he said, noting the species' size helps it avoid predators including seabirds like cormorants.

Chefs, however, still see value. Kuressaare chef Toomas Leedu said the fish works well in simple dishes, even despite its many fine bones.

"You have to learn to work with it," he said, noting how quickly you can whip up an ide sandwich. "And don't be stingy!"

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