Before Russia's full-scale invasion, Ukrainian artist Olga Rodzik specialized exclusively in fashion illustration. "But with the war, that lost some of its meaning for me," she says.

As existential questions about identity and cultural roots became especially acute for Ukrainians, Rodzik wanted to use her work to "speak about broader themes through visual language."

That led her to explore the history of traditional clothing from across Ukraine in even more detail. Though Rodzik admits her research began "absolutely impulsively," she soon found "she couldn't stop exploring Ukrainian traditional costumes."

Coming from Kherson — a region of southern Ukraine deeply affected by Russification and historical oppression — also had a major impact on Rodzik's thinking.

She started to understand jewelry, embroidery and other traditions that ought to have been passed down through the generations but were not, as clear symbols of Russia's ongoing effort to erase Ukrainian culture. "I felt sadness, sorrow and anger from realizing Ukrainian culture had been destroyed for centuries – then I would see the news showing that it's still happening today," Rodzik says.

Despite those difficult emotions, or perhaps even because of them, Rodzik got down to work. Her motivation was clear: "to show the true beauty of Ukrainian costume."

The result is a series of 25 illustrations now on display at Tartu's Aparaaditehas, depicting the wide variety of colorful outfits worn by peasants from across Ukraine's different regions dating back to the 19th century.

Search for meaning

Curator Viktoria Berezina was instrumental in bringing Rodzik's work to Estonia.

"I had been following this series on Olga's social media for a long time and dreamed of showing it to the Estonian public," Berezina told ERR News. "I wanted as many people as possible to see this – not only Ukrainians but also Estonians, guests of Tartu and everyone searching for meaning in a world that has seen so much destruction."

Berezina and Rodzik first met at university and have collaborated on numerous projects in Ukraine, Sweden and even here in Estonia. Rodzik's work featured in the 2022 Ukrainian-Estonian joint exhibition "Trigger" at the tARTu Art Gallery, which Berezina curated online while living under occupation in Kherson.

Having since relocated to Tartu, where she continues to promote connections between Ukraine and Estonia through art, Berezina had been waiting for an opportunity to showcase Rodzik's work once more.

"Finally, the time has come," says Berezina, who adds that holding the exhibition at Tartu's Aparaaditehas — "a place that has become my home, where I live and work in my studio" — makes it even more special.

"Olga isn't just studying traditional costumes," Berezina says, "she is literally stitching memory back together. Despite the pain behind her story, Olga's works radiate light, calm, dignity and a richness of color. They seem to say: we exist, 'we have always existed and we will continue to exist.'"

Source of inspiration

While the themes in Rodzik's work are undoubtedly steeped in Ukrainian history, they are also firmly rooted in the present.

"This series is not about what Ukrainians wore in the past century – although this clothing is undoubtedly beautiful," she explains. "It's about what cannot be destroyed. It's about us — Ukrainians — our culture, identity and our sense of belonging as part of something greater: our nation."

Rodzik points out that traditional costume has increasingly become a source of inspiration for contemporary Ukrainian fashion designers and remains a living part of her country's identity. "Nowadays, many new Ukrainian ethno-brands are emerging — some recreate elements of historical clothing, while others use heritage as inspiration for modernized versions."

In modern-day Ukraine, Rodzik says, "people confidently combine modern clothing with traditional elements, giving them new life — wearing jeans with embroidered shirts or pairing traditional skirts with sneakers, and that's wonderful."

"Traditional clothing shouldn't exist only as a museum exhibit — it should be naturally integrated into everyday wear."

Living fabric

This combination of tradition and modernity to express national belonging are not only intrinsic to Rodzik's work — they are also fundamental to Ukraine's cultural resistance against Russian aggression.

And the impact of that is clearly visible.

Curator Viktoria Berezina describes changing perceptions of her country and its culture since the full-scale war began as "immense."

"If earlier Ukraine was often seen as a 'post-Soviet territory,' today it is recognized as a distinct cultural civilization with deep roots of its own," Berezina points out. "European audiences have become much more attentive and open to our visual language, symbols and colors."

Berezina also stresses, however, that this gives Ukrainian artists an even greater responsibility "to present a truthful, living Ukraine — not a folklorized or nostalgic version. That's why Olga's exhibition is so important: it speaks about tradition not as a museum artifact, but as a living fabric of memory."

Rodzik too, admits that she learned a lot about her own cultural heritage while working on the project. "I discovered what [Ukrainian culture] really was — not distorted or caricatured," she said. And, the more Rodzik found out, the more "it instilled a sense of confidence and pride in my origins."

No longer distorted

Rodzik couldn't be in Tartu for her exhibition's opening in the "charming, sunlit location" of Apaaraditehas' White Greenhouse on October 22. But seeing the photos and videos along with the positive comments from those in attendance made the occasion feel "like a little birthday."

"[I feel] pride — because I accomplished such a large amount of work and the theme resonated with people," Rodzik told ERR News. "And also joy — from knowing this series can help viewers get to know my country a little better."

Both Rodzik and Berezina hope the exhibition will inspire those who see it to learn more about their own cultural traditions.

"We wanted to show that the national costume is not just beautiful embroidery — it is a kind of code that preserves the history of our land, our families, our pain and our victories," Berezina said.

"I also have another dream," she adds — "to create a joint project with Estonian museums and researchers of traditional costume, bringing together illustrations of two wonderful countries — Ukraine and Estonia."

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"Ukrainian National Costumes" by Olga Rodzik opened on October 22 at the White Greenhouse in Tartu's Aparaaditehas.

The exhibition will remain on display until November 5.

More information about Olga Rodzik and her artwork is available here.

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